Yes and no. They pay on the night but then claim the bill back on expenses. They wouldn't hand over their own hard-earned cash at 90 per cent of the places they review. The other 10 per cent - ie the ones they will actually pay for - includes St John (Fergus Henderson's nose-to-tail restaurant in Clerkenwell, EC1); Moro, Exmouth Market, also in EC1; Le Gavroche for a special supper; and the Royal China in Queensway for dumplings. And that is about it!