You should order it at the beginning of December. Most good producers last order date is around the 8th of December. My favourites are Franklins of Thorncroft in Bedfordshire ( 01767 627644, www.franklinsfarm.co.uk). John Franklin’s birds are slow grown over a period of 8 months, twice the time of an intensively reared turkey. They are slaughtered at the farm’s own abattoir. Franklins also sells a delicious three-bird roast: a boned goose, stuffed with a chicken, a pheasant and apricot stuffing (£16.90/kg). Oven ready geese £9.50/kg; Turkeys Bronze £8.20/kg. If you prefer to order from a local branch of a supermarket, then head straight to Marks & Spencer. All M&S's turkeys this year are free range and British, from farms in Northern Ireland, Pembrokeshire and East Anglia (the name of the farmer can be found on packaging). The best ones to buy are its organically reared Devon Bronze turkeys which are fed on natural diets.
They cost £12.69/kg and you must order in advance. 0845 603 1603, www.marksandspencer.com (Mail order. Last order date: 12th December by midday).